The name Tonkatsu originally comes from Europe. “Ton” is a reading of the Chinese character for pork, and “katsu” is a Japanization of the then common cutlet. Specifically, the original recipe seems to have been German, and Tonkatsu represents what, during that period, was the Japanese version of cotelette de porc. Originally the katsu was beef, but during the Sino-Japanese war and the Russo-Japanese conflict which followed it, beef prices rose and pork became popular. Nonetheless, until the end of the Taisho period (1925), if you ordered a cutlet, it was beef you received.

Tonkatsu itself was invented by the master of the RENGA-TEI in Ginza, Tokyo, a restaurant still in business. One day (in 1932 the story goes) the busy master hit upon the idea of deep-frying pork. One could make several portions at once and hence save time. The basic idea was to take the bone out of the meat (making it easier to cook), pound it with salt an pepper, dredge in flour, dip into egg, and then finally coat it with bread crumbs before deep-frying in hot oil.

The master by accident made another surprising invention. In Western dishes, warm vegetables were normally served with the hot meal. However, one day the restaurant was busy with customers, and the warm vegetables prepared beforehand had run out. The master, in trouble, had no other choice but to use the cabbage, sliced and served with Tonkatsu. It was quite risky, but he found all of his customers happy-the thinly sliced fresh cabbage appeared to be a natural fit with deep-fried Tonkatsu.

The sauce is very special and unique. Even if the chef will willingly show you how he prepares the meat, he will never tell you what goes into the sauce. This is because it is a secret, and every Tonkatsu restaurant of any standing has its own recipe. Generally it is made of soy sauce, sake, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and sometimes ketchup, but the proportions are never divulged. In any event, you have the choice of ladling the sauce directly over the meat and cabbage, or dipping each portion into a small dish containing the sauce. You can also use mustard, since this condiment is considered essential in Japan either instead of or in addition to the sauce.

There are today more than 10,000 Tonkatsu restaurants operating in Japan.

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